Kandy’s probably the second destination in Sri Lanka after Colombo, but there’s not to much to do there. I still like the place and have a great almost familial affection for it. Maha Nuwara has hills, which gives it character. I like the elevation cause you can ‘feel’ where you are better, via the inner ear or whatever. It’s fairly easy to orient yourself around the bus stand, jail and lake. Everything goes sorta up or down from there. There are a few lovely temples and vistas and about two places to visit. This is what I know about Kandy. I’d be grateful if anyone could tell me some more interesting things abouts.
Temple Of The Tooth
I haven’t been here in ages, but it’s quite impressive. The tooth, of course, is obscured but there’s a nice room where you can worship or meditate. The place is most active around Perahera time (August). I’ve been told that you can even watch the elephants getting dressed for the procession but I have never had this privilege.
There’s a big Buddha statue visible from everywhere in town. You can just follow it, climb to the top and get a great view of the city. The Buddha itself is not super maintained, but nice. I heard that in Premadasa’s time it was covered in gold, but not sure. From there you can see the whole Kandy Lake, the prisons, the hills, everything. I like heights so I very much like this place.
Peradiniya Gardens
I went here last weekend and I’m honestly not that impressed. The trees are pretty cool, especially the improbably winding willow, but the flowers are nothing much to write home about. The main thing I noticed was the young couples flowering in the nook and cranny of every tree. The place is well maintained but it’s honestly grass as much as anything. I think I walked around the whole area but perhaps I missed something. I also couldn’t find food or Fanta anywhere.
Helga’s Folly
This place is literally a trip. Atop a hill is a unique house/hotel designed by Helga Blow Pereira (names may be different). It feels like being inside a Tim Burton movie. There are parcade floors, elegant dining rooms, and paintings and candles literally melting off the walls. There is literally nowhere to orient yourself. If you look up there’s zodiac tapestries, if you look down there are statues, old guest books and mounds of melted candle wax. It’s a crazy place and very interesting. Everything is priced in dollars and it’s quite expensive, but it’s well worth to hang out there.
The Pub
Literally the only pub in Kandy, this place sits on the main street across from all the banks and Food City. You can watch the main traffic of the city and have a beer and meal. The food is OK though the sauces seem to be a variation on either ketchup or mayonaisse.
Mahaweli Reach
There are numerous places to stay in Kandy. The Queen’s is the oldest but getting a bit run down. Swiss Residence is supposed to be OK. Earl’s Regency has lovely views and is a cool hotel but a bit out. You can of course stay at Helga’s. This time we stayed at the Mahaweli Reach with a friend. It’s a nice hotel on the river and has a singular pool. The thing snakes around, I think to preserve the trees alongside. There’s a nice poolside bar besides and it’s quite chilled out. Is not a bad place to get away.
And that is all I know about Kandy. I still don’t get why we send so many tourists there when entertainment is rather sparse. I hear the Pinawella elephant orphanage and Victoria Falls and things are nearby. I also hear that there are three major temple close as well. If you know anything cool to do in Kandy I’d be interested to know.
Alright, Indi, first some corrections.
1. It’s not Bihiravokanda, it’s Bahirawa Kanda. Or so I think.
2. Peradeniya Garden is supposed to be a botanical garden in the first place and then only it is a tourist attraction. And it never was full of flowers contrary to many people’s image. Still, if you visit it during February/March period, there are some seasonal flowers which are a treat for the eye.
3. The Pub is indeed one of my favorite places there as well, but it is not the only. There is the Queen’s Pub, maintained by Queen’s Hotel (Well I think it’s still there), and many other similar joints that are good to hang around.
And, other than those there are a few places you could visit.
1. Udawatta Kaley. If you want to refresh yourself among trees, and give your legs some good workout, try it.
2. Visit temples such as Ambakka Dewalaya, Lankathillake Vihara. It’s worth it.
3. If you are into Hiking/Trekking, try Hantana. Go all the way up to the top by the road using a Tuk-Tuk or get yourself dropped there by someone (don’t go by your own vehicle because you’re not going to return to the top) and then climb down towards Kandy. There are several routes, but most fun and adventures is right through the jungle. One path many follow leads to Uda-Peradeniya which is near the University of Peradeniya. Then head back from there to where you started.
4. That reminds me, not just Peradeniya Gardens, but the University of Peradeniya too is a wonder of it’s own. Try visiting it. And luckily, unlike other universities in Sri Lanka, there are no gates and you don’t need identification to enter it, plus lot of space to wander around. It’s absolutely beautiful, even more so than the garden itself.
5. And while you’re there, if there happens to be a game of rugby at Nittawela, preferably Kandy SC playing, go to it! You’ll see an atmosphere that you’ll find nowhere else in Sri Lanka. Us Kandyans got such a passion for the game!
I am sure you meant the Victoria Reservoir/Dam and/or golf course (not falls).
Then, there’s Udawaththakele which is as far as I know the only forest reserve within municipal limits of a city in Asia – nice walks, monkeys… etc. and the Trinity College chapel nearby – a piece of architecture that is bound to inspire.
The “Wakara waththa” Forest reserve that stretches back from the south-side of the city across the lake from the Maligawa, stretches through the Hantana mountain range down to Yala National park in the south coast of the island. It’s a 10 minute walk from the city centre and there are leopards there – plenty of footprints have been found which proves their existence and dogs in that area just disappear at night but no verifiable sightings because access to the reserve is highly restricted.
There are two museums just behind the Maligawa that are quite interesting. A boat ride in the lake is not a bad idea but think twice before putting your hand in the water.
The Campus of the Peradeniya University – the amphitheatre (vala), gal palliya and the winding road up to Hantana can be nice. About 15 km past that towards Galaha, you get to a place called Nilambe. There’s a vipassana meditation centre there that I would highly recommend to anyone who would be interested.
Then there’s the war cemetery and elephant bath in Dodanwela/Lady McCullum’s Drive.
The place is very old and can be most appreciated if you know or have a deep interest in its culture and history because everything from Udawaththakele and Maligawa to the location of the Kandy City Centre shopping complex has a long historical narrative attached that don’t meet the eyes of casual visitors. It’s slow and laid back, very conservative (at least in its outlook) and congested, not too cosmopolitan but romantic because it is unique which is what makes the drive up to Kandy (or down to Galle for that matter) from Colombo worthwhile.
Ok Indi. Even if you do not got to the temple of the tooth you MUST go to these two places. These two places are the MOST scenic places on earth, and it is crazy to got to Kandy and to visit them.
1. The Victoria golf course .
2. Pitakanda war cemetery.
The other thing you must do in Kandy is to talk tot eh owners of the places you mentioned. If you think the Helga’s folly is crazy wait till you spend sometime with the owner :) Same is with The pub.
Visit to the Pera Uni would be great. None of the other universities in SL can hold a candle to pera in terms of the location. Amazing place that is.
If you have the time just walk about Aniwatte , the Col 7 of Kandy, to see proper houses.
I travel to Kandy on work quite often and the place never ceases to awe me. Couple of more things you could do;
1- Boat ride on the Kandy lake.
2- Kandy City Center – New but they’ve been adding to it consistently. Bit like Crescat, well maintained and convenient in terms of banking.
3- Local retail therapy – perhaps more for the ladies than gents. A stroll down the road opp. Cargills takes you down some interesting by roads with local crafts and locally made shoes. Take a walk down to the square for some heavy duty pavement hawking.
4 – Trinity College Chapel – Stunning! Though ud need to visit the place with an old boy or pupil, if not access is restricted.
As a 76 year old piper I will be playing a lament in the Kandy war cemetery in November 2010. Not too sure of the date yet but anyone in the area is welcome to join me. Sample of one my 100+ war graves pilgrimages in the past can be seen on internet under BILL JENKINS BANGALORE