Enjoya Poya
One of my favorite things about this country is probably our preservation of Buddhism. Vipassana meditation has made a huge difference in my life, lifting years of depression and grumpiness. Our particular superstitions also give us a day off work every full moon. Recently I drove down to Kandy for a wedding, at Earl’s Regency. Ate, met a friend there and we ducked out to go see town before the sun set. Because Kandy really is a beautiful, multi-layered town. We asked the hotel security where we could find a ‘lassana thanna’ and he drew a blank. Which is so so sad. So many people see less of their own country than tourists. So we just drove to the one place we could see. The huge Biharavokanda Buddha statue overlooking the town.
The thing is, this is all a day trip. I can get in the car and drive to the beach, the jungle, the hills or even the opposite coast within a day. Some day, inshallah, I’ll be able to drive to the north. I’ll admit that I miss some creature comforts and consumer goods from the west but this, to me, is luxury.
Kandy, for example is a lovely city. What I like most is the depth and layers of the city. Colombo is effectively flat and it’s easy to get lost (and there are no views). I like hilly cities because you can always sorta sense where you are by the pressure in your ears, the slope beneath your feet, the temperature on your skin, any number of things. Height gives you a sense of place. And I generally love heights.
And water. At the center of Kandy is an artificial lake which cools in the day and reflects everything at night. And it’s something obvious to orient yourself by. Driving by it me and Ranil wondered what the hell happened to us. How come we don’t do this stuff anymore? Our ancestors built giant lakes and stupas with their hands and wits. We lease airplanes from the west. In the old days a king was judged on the tanks and stupas he built. If I was President I’d do the same thing.
Talked to a cop at the Biharavokanda Buddha. There are police quarters just below. He said during President Premadasa’s days the Buddha was covered in gold flake. The gold flaked and the Buddha is white now. There’s a small room inside with carvings and images. There’s another full of boxes, junk and stacked chairs. You can see the whole city, and the whole city can see you. The lake, the walls, the houses, the cars.
It’s not a bad place to be, here, this moment, Sri Lanka.
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“One of my favorite things about this country is probably our preservation of Buddhism.”
You gotta be kidding.
On a different note, check out Ambuluwawa while you’re there. It’s a temple on a hill. The view is amazing. Post some pics and videos if possible.
Brings back memories, my birth place. There is something special in kandy, I don’t know how to explain it, only thing I know is once I get down from the bus from colombo I feel something special. Maybe it happens because it is my hometown, but I still miss the quite moments you could have by the lake.
Ok indi this what I think about that building tanks thing. We don’t build tanks and stupas anymore because they don’t provide employment. I was born in Kandy and I want to die there. But the good for nothing economy of Kandy won’t allow me that. Once I educate myself I have to migrate to colombo because that is the only place where you can find a suitable job for your education. We should not keep on building tanks and stupas because it takes people like mine’s right to live where we feel we belong. In the past kings were judged by the tanks he built because that is how employment was generated. In present day much much more employment could be generated by a vibrant services sector. We can move forward with rest of the world and we can still be Sri Lankans.
I hope I was not too passionate with the reply, it is just that I think we are going in the wrong direction. By the way what is the fort?
sorry, not the fort, the prison
If you run, I will come and vote for you! I am beginning to like your camera.
I think no matter where Sri Lanka is amazing.. really.. Colombo(yes ita really beautiful, noticed on my way home each day) Kandy Anuradhapura, Hikkakduwa are having wonders of their own.. and Ambuluwawa is an real creation of nature beautified more with human art.. guess all of us need to care a bit more of them.. nice post..
This prez prefers to buy his tanks rather than build ‘em. However, one of the few good things we build here in SL are boats.
I can’t exactly put my finger on why… but this post made me more homesick than anything I’ve read on Kottu in the last year.
I didn’t even grow up in Kandy and its not one of my favourite places in SL but damn – I want to go home…
great post. what was the song you used?
‘Family Tree’ by TV On The Radio